Natural Stone Countertops, SenSa® Granite Countertops, South Carolina, SC

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Cleaning the Surface:

You can clean your granite countertop with a few drops of neutral cleaner or a mild liquid dishwashing detergent and warm water. Too much cleaner or soap may leave a film and cause streaks. Keep in mind that most abrasive cleaners as well as products with acids in them, such as a lemon based cleaning products or vinegar, will etch or damage the stone and can erode the sealer. For heavier cleaning tasks you can purchase cleaners that are specially formulized for stone products. The cleaning products you use should only be strong enough to do the required task and no more. In the bath or other wet areas, soap scum can be minimized by using a squeegee after each use. To remove soap scum, use a non-acidic soap scum remover or a solution of ammonia and water (about 1/2 cup ammonia to a gallon of water). Frequent or over-use of an ammonia solution may eventually dull the surface of the stone.

The DON'TS of Granite Care

DON"T use products with acid in them such as lemon based products, vinegar or Windex.

DON'T use harsh or abrasive cleaners such as bathroom cleaners, grout cleaners, or tub & tile cleaners.

DON'T use scouring pads or steel wool because they can leave scratches

DON'T mix bleach and ammonia; this combination creates a toxic and lethal gas.

DON'T ever mix chemicals together unless directions specifically instruct you to do so.

Sealing Your Granite:

Sealing natural stone is a way to protect your stone from staining and to make your day to day cleaning easier. We recommend every 6 months to a year depending on use. Due to its porosity, lighter colors of Granite may need to be sealed more frequently in the beginning. You can do a very simple test to find out if your stone is sufficiently sealed. Spill a few drops of water on your countertops. The water should bead up like on a waxed car. Wait a few minutes, and then wipe it up. If your stone does not darken, your counter top is sufficiently sealed.

Granite sealers are easy to work with and can be purchased at your local home center. As with any specialty product, always read the application instructions, and follow them to the letter. Many granite sealers tell you to apply them to dry granite. This is very important. This doesn't mean clean the countertop and then dry it with a paper towel. If water is in the small cracks, fissures and spaces between the crystals, the sealer can't penetrate into the granite. So make sure to give your granite sufficient time to air dry. Once your tops are clean and dry, wipe the sealer on, let it sit for the recommended time and then wipe it off while it's still wet.

We also recommend that you check the caulk around your backsplash and sinks occasionally to ensure that it is still intact.

Staining:

One of the most important things you can do to keep your granite top looking new is to clean up accidental spills as soon as possible. Blot the spill with a paper towel immediately. Don't wipe the area, it will spread the spill. Flush the area with water and mild soap and rinse several times. Dry the area thoroughly with a soft cloth. Repeat as necessary. If the stain remains there are a few methods that may help remove it.

Identifying the type of stain on the stone surface is the key to removing it. If you don't know what caused the stain, play detective. Where is the stain located? Is it near a plant, a food service area, an area where cosmetics are used? What color is it? What is the shape or pattern? What goes on in the area around the stain? Surface stains can often be removed by cleaning with an appropriate cleaning product or household chemical. Deep-seated or stubborn stains may require using a poultice or calling in a professional. The following sections describe the types of stains that you may have to deal with and appropriate household chemicals to use and how to prepare and apply a poultice to remove the stain.

Types of Stains and First Step Cleaning Actions:

OIL-BASED
(grease, tar, cooking oil, milk, cosmetics)
An oil-based stain will darken the stone and normally must be chemically dissolved so the source of the stain can be flushed or rinsed away. Clean gently with a soft, liquid cleanser with bleach OR household detergent OR ammonia OR mineral spirits OR acetone.
ORGANIC
(coffee, tea, fruit, tobacco, paper, food, urine, leaves, bark, bird droppings)
May cause a pinkish-brown stain which may disappear after the source of the stain has been removed. Outdoors, with the sources removed, normal sun and rain action will generally bleach out the stains. Indoors, clean with 12% hydrogen peroxide (hair bleaching strength) and a few drops of ammonia.
METAL
(iron, rust, copper, bronze)
Iron or rust stains are orange to brown in color and follow the shape of the staining object such as nails, bolts, screws, cans, flower pots, metal furniture. Copper and bronze stains appear as green or muddy-brown and result from the action of moisture on nearby or embedded bronze, copper or brass items. Metal stains must be removed with a poultice. Deep-seated, rusty stains are extremely difficult to remove and the stone may be permanently stained.
BIOLOGICAL
(algae, mildew, lichens, moss, fungi)
Clean with diluted (1/2 cup in a gallon of water) ammonia OR bleach OR hydrogen peroxide. DO NOT MIX BLEACH ANDAMMONIA! THIS COMBINATION CREATES A TOXIC AND LETHAL GAS!
INK
(magic marker, pen, ink)
Clean with bleach or hydrogen peroxide (light colored stone only!) or lacquer thinner or acetone (dark stones only!)
PAINT
Small amounts can be removed with lacquer thinner or scraped off carefully with a razorblade. Heavy paint coverage should be removed only with a commercial "heavy liquid" paint stripper available from hardware stores and paint centers. These strippers normally contain caustic soda or lye. Do not use acids or flame tools to strip paint from stone. Paint strippers can etch the surface of the stone; re-polishing by your fabricator may be necessary. Follow the manufacturer's directions for use of these products, taking care to flush the area thoroughly with clean water. Protect yourself with rubber gloves and eye protection, and work in a well-ventilated area. Use only wood or plastic scrapers for removing the sludge and curdled paint. Normally, latex and acrylic paints will not cause staining. Oil-based paints, linseed oil, putty, caulks and sealants may cause oily stains. Refer to the section on oil-based stains.

Making and Using a Poultice
A poultice is a liquid cleaner or chemical mixed with a white absorbent material to form a paste about the consistency of peanut butter. The poultice is spread over the stained area to a thickness of about 1/4 to 1/2 inch with a wood or plastic spatula, covered with plastic and left to work for 24 to 48 hours. The liquid cleaner or chemical will draw out the stain into the absorbent material. Poultice procedures may have to be repeated to thoroughly remove a stain, but some stains may never be completely removed.

Poultice Materials
Poultice materials include kaolin, fuller's earth, whiting, diatomaceous earth, powdered chalk, white molding plaster or talc. Approximately one pound of prepared poultice material will cover one square foot. Do not use whiting or iron-type clays such as fuller's earth with acid chemicals. The reaction will cancel the effect of the poultice. A poultice can also be prepared using white cotton balls, whitepaper towels or gauze pads.

Cleaning Agents or Chemicals:

OIL-BASED STAINS
Poultice with baking soda and water OR one of the powdered poultice materials and mineral spirits.

ORGANIC STAINS
Poultice with one of the powdered poultice materials and 12% hydrogen peroxide solution (hair bleaching strength) OR use acetone instead of the hydrogen peroxide.

IRON STAINS
Poultice with diatomaceous earth and a commercially available rust remover. Rust stains are particularly difficult to remove. You may need to call a professional.

COPPER STAINS
Poultice with one of the powdered poultice materials and ammonia. These stains are difficult to remove. You may need to call a professional.

BIOLOGICAL STAINS
Poultice with dilute ammonia OR bleach OR hydrogen peroxide. DO NOT MIX AMMONIA AND BLEACH! THIS COMBINATIONCREATES A TOXIC AND LETHAL GAS!

Applying the Poultice:

Prepare the poultice. If using powder, mix the cleaning agent or chemical to a thick paste the consistency of peanut butter. If using paper, soak in the chemical and let drain. Don't let the liquid drip.

Wet the stained area with distilled water.

Apply the poultice to the stained area about1/4 to 1/2 inch thick and extend the poultice beyond the stained area by about one inch. Use a wood or plastic scraper to spread the poultice evenly.

Cover the poultice with plastic and tape the edges to seal it.

Allow the poultice to dry thoroughly, usually about 24 to 48 hours. The drying process is what pulls the stain out of the stone and into the poultice material. After about 24 hours, remove the plastic and allow the poultice to air dry.

Remove the poultice from the stain. Rinse with distilled water and buff dry with a soft cloth. Use the wood or plastic scraper if necessary.

Repeat the poultice application if the stain is not removed. It may take up to five applications for difficult stains.

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